Repacing the Off Side Floors and Sills
The panels arrived a couple of weeks after ordering them as some of the panels were made to order. They were well packaged with each panel wrapped in corrugated cardboard and then boxed together in a sturdy box.
The floor panels looked okay, though there were a few wrinkles around some areas, I assume the different grooves/depressions in the panel were pressed individually. Nothing too serious that a little panel beating wouldn't correct. Where the outer sill and jacking point were welded to the floor there was no rust protection on the welds. As this was a long term project and the panels were likely to be lying around for some time, I decided to clean them down and add a coat of Etch Primer. It will no doubt get scratched off during assembly, but that will be easier to clean up than the panels going rusty before they are fitted.
Now having the panels it was time to get busy with the grinder and start taking out the rust. This was just a case of area by area cutting out the panels without removing the flanges of the floors cross member and the rear passenger companion box. I will be replacing the door step but for the moment wanted to keep it in place as a reference for the location of the inner and outer sills.
I was fortunate as the companion box flanges hadn't suffered any corrosion and it would be possible to clean them up and re use them. The outer section of the heel board was also removed ready for the new rear subframe mounting point repair panel. This did reveal a lot more work that would be needed around the rear wheel arch and boot floor.
The floor cross member flanges were a different story, they had been twisted and damaged during the process of removing the spot welds and would need to be cutaway and replaced. I marked a line 100mm from the end of the cross member as a reference to measure from when fitting the new flanges.
The edge that lay between the floor and gearbox tunnel was tidied up by marking a straight edge with masking tape and carefully grinding back the metal to the tape.
The metal around the front subframe mounting holes was badly corroded and a stress/fatigue crack had started to form. As this area of the kick board needed to be replaced, I first made a gauge by securing a sheet of steel with three tech screws then drilled through the existing holes from inside the body. The gauge could later be refitted to the repaired steel and used to redrill new subframe mounting holes in the correct location.
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